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07-15-2012, 07:19 AM
When Ellen Barry went on vacation in Mongolia with her family, she saw their teenage guide turn into a spirit. And that's not all. There were hearty meals, Bactrian camels and baleful signs of iron dzuds and black dzuds. "We caught glimpses of an ancient people," she writes, "remnants of a culture that by all rights should have vanished along with most of the earth's wild places."
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